Exploring the Islands of Vinalhaven & North Haven
An Off-the-Beaten-Path Adventure Awaits
Leave the car behind and set out for an off-the-beaten-path adventure to Vinalhaven and North Haven, two islands in MidCoast Maine. Located 15 miles off the coast of Rockland, these islands are filled with scenery and experiences that will remind you why Maine is considered “vacationland.” Here’s how to make the journey to these MidCoast retreats.
Venture Out to the Island of Vinalhaven
Head to the Rockland ferry terminal to park your car and purchase your ticket for the ferry. Since summer is the prime time for a visit to these islands, be sure to arrive early to allow plenty of time to find a parking spot. If the ferry terminal lot is full, parking is available at other lots in town or the neighboring boatyard. If you end up parking at the boatyard, be prepared to leave your keys with the boatyard attendant in case they need to move your vehicle while you are out on the island, as it is a privately-owned working boatyard. With your car parked, your ferry tickets purchased, and time to spare, you’re free to explore downtown Rockland. A five-minute walk from the ferry terminal lands you in the heart of downtown Rockland. You’ll find restaurants and shops to grab a bite to eat and you might even be able to squeeze in some shopping before heading out to the islands. Make sure you are back at the ferry terminal earlier than the stated ferry departure time so you have plenty of time to board and settle in. Stay inside or head up top to take in the panoramic view. Catch a glimpse of Rockland Harbor Light and Owl’s Head Light as you head out of the harbor. One hour and fifteen minutes later you will arrive at the southern end of Vinalhaven!
Settle into Island Life with a Stay on the Harbor
After you arrive in Vinalhaven, it’s a ten-minute walk into town to The Tidewater. The inn, which has been family owned and operated for nearly 50 years, is centrally located to everything you need in town during your stay. Breakfast is included and is served each morning up in “the Gathering Place” common area which offers a panoramic view of the boat-filled harbor. A calendar in the lobby highlighting daily inn activities hangs alongside a board filled with flyers for upcoming community events. Within walking distance from the inn, along Main street, you’ll find restaurants, a small grocery store, and one-of-a-kind shops featuring locally made art, housewares, toys, and gifts. If you want to venture out further than Main Street, The Tidewater offers shuttle service to help guests get to other parts of the island.
Tour Vinalhaven by Taxi
If you want to venture out further from the hotel and are not sure where to explore, call Jeanne from Vinalhaven Taxi for a taxi tour of the island she proudly calls home. She’ll give you the scoop on where to find a swimming quarry and how to catch the best sunset. If you love to hike, she will show you where the trails are around the island, most of which are part of the Vinalhaven Land Trust, including Lane’s Island Preserve, Armbrust Hill Town Park, and Huber Preserve (which is a great place for a picnic). She will also point out the restored Victorian homes once owned by the families that owned the quarries on the island, the fish houses still in use by local fishermen and women, and the historical Pleasant River Grange site. A teacher at heart, Jeanne not only gets you where you need to go but also happily shares the history of the island, making you want to stay and explore for a while.
When in Maine, Eat Seafood
After exploring for the day and then catching an afternoon nap back at the inn, dinner at Dot & Millie’s restaurant is just a two-minute stroll away. Owners Amy and Kelly have created a freshly curated “welcome home” atmosphere that invites you to sit and savor island life. Start with a “hello Dotty” or “bubbles for Mary Frances” for drinks, then move on to chowder and charcuterie for appetizers. A main course of seafood stew or scallops and bacon (or steak, chicken, or pasta if seafood isn’t your thing) will satisfy your appetite but be sure to save room to top it all off with dessert.
Vintage Boat + Sunset = Perfection!
After dinner, it’s time to watch the sunset, which is best viewed offshore. Mark Jackson of Vinalhaven by Boat will pick you up near the town dock and take you out for a perfectly timed sunset ride on his vintage Hampton wooden boat. The slow-speed cruise takes you around Greens Island past the Heron Neck Lighthouse and then around Hurricane Island. Pass by seals and keep an eye out for the bald eagles flying overhead while you watch the colors of the sky transform 360 degrees around you as the sun inches toward the pines on the horizon.
Live Music and a Nightcap…If You Can Find the Island Speakeasy
Wind down the evening with a nightcap and live music…if you can find the island speakeasy, Skål. (Hint: follow the directions on the sign located along Main Street.) Pianist and seventh-generation islander, Kris Davidson created this Scandinavian-inspired venue centered around music, comfort, and happiness. Sip drinks pondside or head inside for an authentic speakeasy feel.
A New Day, a New Island…And a Step Back in Time
When you’re ready to hop over to North Haven, head up to Young’s Cove (eight miles from The Tidewater) at the north end of the island with Jeanne of Vinalhaven Taxi or the Tidewater shuttle (if it’s available) to make the three-minute trip across the Fox Island Thoroughfare. The process of getting the ride between the islands will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Once you arrive at the gravel parking area near the Vinalhaven dock, look for the payphone on the telephone pole then dial the phone number etched on it. An employee at Brown’s Boatyard across the way will answer and note that you are waiting to be picked up and transported across the thoroughfare to North Haven. This “ferry” (a small outboard boat that seats 4-5 people and can accommodate bikes) runs during the day on the hour for a small fee. Before heading over, be sure to make arrangements for a taxi or shuttle to pick you back up from Young’s Cove when you’re ready to return.
Brews, Oysters, Shopping, and a Walk through the Woods on North Haven
Just steps off the ferry landing in North Haven, you’ll find plenty to explore. Get lunch at The Landing (and don’t forget the ice cream!) and grab brews at North Haven Brewing. Walk off your meal with a stroll through Sage Woods then head back to North Haven Gift Shop on Main Street to shop for unique gifts and keepsakes, many of which are made locally. If you have time and want to venture further into the island, the three-mile trip to visit North Haven Oyster can’t be missed. Learn more about this MidCoast region stop on the Maine Oyster Trail. After exploring North Haven, head back to Brown’s Boatyard and check in at the hardware store to let them know you’re ready to cross back over to Vinalhaven. Note that if you don’t have time to visit both Vinalhaven and North Haven in one trip, you can always take a ferry directly to North Haven from Rockland (and back). Just be sure to plan another time to explore Vinalhaven.
Visit an Island Off an Island to See Puffins!
Did you know you can see puffins in MidCoast Maine? From May through August a colony of puffins, razorbills, terns, and more call Seal Island National Wildlife Refuge home. The island itself is closed to the public, but boat tours to view the island are permitted. Birding expert John Drury, of Maine Seabird Tours, takes guests out for tours aboard his boat, Skua. In addition to seeing plenty of puffins and seals, you might also see sunfish, porpoises, and even sharks in the waters surrounding the island. This up-close wildlife encounter is the perfect end to an island-hopping adventure in MidCoast Maine. Whether you’ve visited the MidCoast region before or are considering your first trip, a journey out to the islands of Vinalhaven and North Haven will leave you with magical Maine memories. Come experience these unique adventures yourself and see why the coast of Maine is the perfect place to escape the rat race and venture off the beaten path.
Written by Lisa Luken, a Maine-based writer and researcher exploring rural and coastal communities around the world. She writes and speaks on slow travel, off-the-beaten-path adventures, women’s leadership, community building, simple living, and happiness and well-being.
Photos by Capshore Photography, A Southern Maine duo whose passion is creating authentic images and video to tell stories using both traditional and aerial drone photography.
