To Sea, or Not to Sea
Exploring Muscongus Bay by sea kayak (and canoe).
It was Friday afternoon. We were texting friends to solidify plans for our day paddle on Saturday. “Should we make it an overnight trip?” I pressed send before even thinking through the realities of making that possible. There are a lot of logistics that go into camping, but none of them seemed to be a hindrance with a beautiful weekend on the horizon. “We’re in!” Our friends replied.
We met for a late-night Hannaford run and talked through our gear checklist. By morning, we were packed and off for an overnight up the coast. We headed up Route 1 towards Round Pond where we loaded our boats and set off. The ocean was surprisingly calm. It was our friends’ first-time kayak camping and we couldn’t have picked a better day to get out on the water. Having grown up sea kayaking, it’s always a pleasure to share the ocean with those that haven’t had the opportunity before. There are many great resources, outfitters, and guides that make Maine’s coast more accessible, listed below.
We did a loop around some islands in Muscongus Bay before reaching our home for the evening. Thief Island has become a favorite over the years, giving that remote feeling looking onto a vast ocean. This accommodation is made accessible by the Maine Island Trail Association, a non-profit dedicated to the “protection and enjoyment of the wild islands of coastal Maine.” Annual membership fees “support ongoing stewardship and education efforts aimed at preserving Trail sites and experiences for future generations.” As proud members of MITA, we take every opportunity we can to enjoy the rustic beauty found on these islands.
Upon arrival, we pulled our boats far above the high-tide line and unloaded them, setting up tents in the established sites and stocking the picnic table with our food supply. We were perched on the north side of the island with panoramic views of Muscongus Bay. After some lunch, we took a walk around the island. Heading clockwise, the trail to the east is like a densely vegetated tunnel with the overhead branches draped in Old Man’s Beard (lichen). On the southern shore, big granite slabs disappear into the surf, decorated with bladderwrack and other seaweeds. We continued the lap along the western rocks, still warm from basking all day, back to our encampment, as an osprey swooped overhead.
Dinner plans involved the fire pit (fires are only permitted on certain MITA campsites, with specific rules, research them before your trip!) so we collected some driftwood and stoked the fire until we had a glowing pile of embers. The great thing about watercraft camping is that the penalty of extra weight is mitigated—unlike backpacking, the boats absorb the extra pounds, not your back, making luxuries like beer and watermelons attainable. When the sausages and peppers were ready, we gathered around the picnic table, piling our buns with toppings and condiments of choice. The sunset set the horizon ablaze and we eventually traded the pink clouds for the Milky Way. Under the stars, we played cards by headlamp, immersed in the moment with no distractions in sight. With clear skies overhead, we crawled into our tents with the rainfly off and drifted to sleep as a gentle breeze picked up.
Eventually, we woke to the caw of the gulls and the warmth of the sun. It looked to be another perfect day on the coast. We moved slowly through the morning with coffee, breakfast, and a dip in the ocean. There was no sense in rushing! As we began to pack up, we heard the exhale of porpoises coming up for air. Eager to paddle alongside them, we took down camp (leaving it better than we found), loaded our boats, and set off. We caught a few more porpoise breaches from afar, but weren’t able to paddle with them on this trip.
From Thief Island, we headed east towards Cranberry Island and explored the rock ledges and skerries along the way. We pulled our boats up on Cedar Island for what was meant to be a quick snack, but devolved into lunch, skipping stones, and swimming in the shallows. It was clear we had nothing more pressing than soaking in our time at sea.
After filling our metaphorical cups, we completed our lap of Muscongus Bay. With a final paddle stroke, our kayaks surfed a small wave onto the cobbled beach by our cars. Before unloading, we all stood ankle-deep in the lapping ocean, silently, soaking in the view one more time. It’s always a pleasure to spend time at sea, exploring Maine from such a unique vantage.
In Maine, we’re lucky to have world-class sea kayaking available anywhere along the coast. Here are some resources for anyone looking for an adventure at sea.
Things to remember: Boat & paddle Spray skirt Personal flotation device (PFD) Bilge pump, sponge, or bailer Identification on boat/gear Chart Compass Fresh water Dry bags Sun protection (hat, sunglasses, SPF) Camping & cooking essentials
Join the Maine Island Trail Association. This grants you access to maps, island usage, and lots more information
Consider hiring a guide. If you’re unfamiliar with the ocean and all its unpredictability, the Maine Association of Sea Kayak Guides and Instructors is a great resource.
Safety precautions: Know your route and share your itinerary with a friend staying on land. Refresh safety protocols, expectations, and rescue techniques. Scout the weather and have a plan for fog, winds, tides.
Local Outfitters: H2Outfitters, Orr’s Island, Midcoast Kayak, Damariscotta, Tidal Transit, Boothbay, Maine Sport Outfitters, Camden & Rockland
Christine Reighley
Managing Editor at Maine the Way
mtwquarterly.com
instagram.com/mainetheway
